The preservation of perfume. While fresh zest offers a fleeting spray of citrus oil, candied peel captures that aroma in a matrix of sugar. It is made by taking the thick rinds of bitter (Seville) or sweet oranges, boiling them to remove the harsh bitterness of the white pith, and then slowly cooking them in increasingly strong sugar syrup until the peel becomes translucent. It is the jewel of the baker's pantry, providing the "bite" in a Christmas pudding, a Florentine, or a Panettone, where fresh fruit would turn to mush.